Month: September 2021

Our first rest day since Day40 in Besancon France. That was 36 days ago peeps. This was certainly overdue and what a fun city to choose.

Back in 1999, Allison and I visited Lucca for an afternoon and hoped one day we’d be back. We’d never have guessed we’d WALK here, but that’s how life changes you.

Morning Update

Lucca is a walled city and has its full share of tourists and vendors hawking touristy goods. But it’s such a pretty place that you can overlook all that as you walk around its twisted streets that all have Roman roots.

In the piazza Anphiteatro you are literally in the center of a Roman Amphitheater.

The 13th century Duomo borders the Roman Forum. It contains several important art works on the interior (some of which irritated me for reasons I won’t explain here). The one image of the last supper I enjoyed because it was from an unusual perspective.

But the two things that intrigued me most were the labyrinth carved onto one pillar and the carvings for each month and the zodiac on the front portico.

Labyrinths are associated with a pilgrimage and some full size ones exist throughout Europe. The exterior has magnificent marble columns as well.

The 13th century Cathedral at San Michele is just as beautiful. The interior is stark but the crucifix above the alter shows Christ not suffering but triumphant in death. I like different representations like these.

Since this was a rest day the “waking around” had to stop. So Allison and I sought out a good spot for lunch. Serendipitously (good word right), we walked passed a couple who sat beside us at dinner last evening. They recommended the bistro called Ciacco who’s “motto” was “No pasta, so pizza, no stress”. There were no tables available so we walked on. Finding nothing better we returned and a spot had opened up. “Due insalasti per favore!”

We talked again to Jim and Brenda, and their two friends Scott and Lisa. Brenda had already hooked up with this blog so…a shout out to these guys and the laughter we shared one afternoon in Lucca.

After the late lunch we were done for the day. It was time to take off the vacation hat and become pilgrims again. A quick trip to the supermarket yielded groceries for dinner (microwave stew and a pre-packaged salad) and breakfast and lunch for the next day. It was sad to return to living in relative luxury. We are once again poor pilgrims.

Funny story to end the evening. The microwave we thought we’d see in the Ostello….was a toaster. Hmmmm. We’ll figure it out somehow.

P.S. more and more pilgrims joining the route. Yay!

Early morning and fast packing meant that we were on our way by 7 after already having a yogurt breakfast.

We shot a morning update but embarrassingly left the lens cap on. Oh well, enjoy the audio anyway.

The morning was cool when we left Camaiore. Four Polish ladies who’d shared the B&B left at the same time and we walked with them briefly until Allison’s 5th gear kicked in and we were off to the races.

It’s good that it was cool because three strenuous climbs awaited us. Ok, so they were nothing like the Alps in expanse but for a morning it got us huffing and puffing. The first climb was intentional, the second was labeled Via Francigena, but apparently it wasn’t the main route but rather an alternate “panoramic route”. We didn’t see that detail until we’d rejoined the main route and looked back at a sign. Oh well… ?? We needed the exercise ??

The third climb was also intentional but this time the “official route” climbed but there was a flatter/easier alternative…and that was our morning.

We started running into “Passion crosses” which were popular at the turn of the 20th century when a group called the Passionistas (no joke), were popular. These crosses all share features from the biblical account of the crucifixion such as a spear and a sponge on a pole Sometimes there is a crown of thorns and a hammer and nails as well.

We ate a rather posh lunch of Parmesan cheese, crackers and smoked salmon before making our way into town. Lodging had not been firmed up but in the end we opted for a hotel/B&B instead of the Pilgrim Ostello. We both needed a break.

The walk into Lucca along the Fume Serchio was nicely shaded and but the suburbs were big and the afternoon dragged on until we met the walls of Lucca.

22yrs ago, Allison and I visited Lucca. Here is our reflection of that event and a brief tour walking into the town.

https://youtube.com/shorts/c9CPxY1pzAA?feature=share

We checked into our b&b which is just inside the old Roman Amphitheater.

https://youtube.com/shorts/n4Jcjiik2E4?feature=share

We ended our evening with some class. A concert (opera) and a nice dinner together.

Here’s to over 75% through this adventure.

First this depressing start…don’t worry, the day got much better.

It took a while for us to wake up today. The length of today’s walk was at least filled with interesting sights.

First we woke to a scene shrouded in mist and cloud. It was really pretty and make the morning feel like the start of an adventure.

Our history lesson started in the Copper Age about 4000BC. It is around this date when the Lunigiana people of this region created stone carvings or stele. The reason is uncertain but the human representations are interesting. The oldest are symbolic representations of people on rectangular stone. As the ages progressed the representations began to take more human form eventually become more statues that stele.

As was common practice, buildings were made from existing materials and some of the stele were incorporated into churches. One such church is Santo Stefano di Sorano near the village of Filattiera. While visiting we dropped by the Tourist Information booth and got a stamp and a gratis coffee.

The previous village was founded in the early Middle Ages around 550AD. A surviving tower demonstrated an interesting defensive principle. The entrance was on the first floor (for Americans that would be the 2nd floor – the first about Ground Floor). To reach the entrance, a ladder was lowered. The second floor (3rd floor for Americans) was reached by another ladder lowered from that floor etc. All that was interesting but just the fact that the tower still stands and has been incorporated into a house is amazing.

After visiting the Stele sight, we climbed to the town of Filatteria itself. This small town has a medieval layout and was the sight of the Hostel of San Giacomo di Altopascio. The 2nd church in the small town dates to the 12th century but houses the funerary stone of Leodegar of the Longobard Age (752AD)

The final history lesson came with the village of Filetto. This town is of Byzantine origin and has a precise square pattern. The portals to the city are still used by traffic and walking through the main square was like stepping back in time.

Our day ended with pleasant ups and downs that weren’t too tasking but enough to get the heart pumping. The weather however was humid so….let’s just say, we needed a shower.

Finally we headed off for a much deserved 5star dining experience.

We had yet another long day 70 so I’ll make the day 69 recap short. Sorry.

First this.

Then we ran across the solitary oak tree if read about.

….and then found this:

https://youtube.com/shorts/D6SaoxTZcpc?feature=share

The Appenines are beautiful:

Then we made this momentous decision made with poor facts:

You already saw what happened in the end. Our facts were wrong and we ended with 26.3miles and a 4400+ ft climb. Ugh

I’ll amend this entry tomorrow but for now…..

Shortest entry ever everyone…. Because of this: